If you’re wondering what is the best tankless water heater for large home and you need an answer, you’ve come to the right place. The tankless water heater is an oversized version of an electric kettle.
There is no standing water tank. Hot water is supplied through an element that heats it up just before it is used by a cook who needs hot water to make dinner, or when it is time for children to bathe before bed.
Traditional water heaters are fickle friends in many ways. During heavy use, the 25- or 50-liter reservoir can be emptied faster than it is refilled and heated, leaving someone in a cold shower.
Heating and maintaining that amount of water at the same time is not very energy efficient, and if the heater suffers a catastrophic failure, a lot of water is poured into your attic or garage.
While water heaters have been a staple in homes for decades, their inefficiencies have led to a new generation of hot water systems for the home: the tankless water heater.
Taking a bath is a totally pleasant, relaxing, and refreshing experience, we could say that it is one of the pleasures of life. Each person has a different taste in terms of water temperature, which is why thanks to technology today you can enjoy a delicious shower to the point of your preference. Here are the best electric shower water heaters.
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What is the best tankless water heater for large home?
1. Ayouyue water heater
100% brand new heater made with ABS plastic material. Head size is 6 ″ x 5 ″. The showerhead comes with 3 temperature settings. It works very well with AC 110V ~ 127V (Compatible with all North American countries).
Perfect for hot showers on a cold morning. It can be installed next to the pool or even in small cabins where we can make complicated mounting of large heaters.
2. EcoSmart Tankless Electric Heater
It operates at 11Kw at 220 equal to 13kw at 240 and the activation flow is 0.3 GPM. Requires a minimum 125 amp electrical panel for installation with a 60 amp dual pole breaker connected to an AWG # 6 cord set. Dimensions: 11.5 x 8 x 3.75 inches .
Never run out of hot water with the ECOSMART Tankless Heater. Save up to 60% on water heating costs with advanced self-modulating technology. Digital temperature control in 1-degree increments gives users complete control of hot water.
3. Eccotemp: L10 Portable Water Heater
It runs on a standard 20-pound liquid propane tank and is equipped with electronic ignition. Powered by 2 “D” cell batteries. S Alida hot water 2.6 GPM and range attainable temperature of 50 to 140 degrees F . It is easy to connect to any standard garden hose.
Light and compact, making it ideal for camping, washing your pets, and outdoor showers. It has a safety shutdown that is activated when the unit runs more than 20 minutes or is tilted more than 45 degrees in any direction.
4. Bosch Thermotechnology: Electric Tank Heater
It has a 7-gallon mini tank. C 1440 watt heating capacity and a temperature range of 65-145 ° F. Max. Has 3/4 in. Male NPT water connections. Its electrical requirements are (Amp / Volts) -12 A / 120 V.
It can be mounted on a shelf, wall, or floor (the bracket is included for vertical orientation only obtaining 7 gals. Supply) but it can also be installed horizontally obtaining 5.1 gals. A reliable source of water to achieve a temperature to your liking.
5. Camplux: Portable Tankless Heater
Includes flame failure device, antifreeze protection, and oxygen depletion safety shutdown protection. The maximum temperature increase is 114.8 ℉ (46 ℃) and the minimum temperature rise is 46.4 ℉ (8 ℃). You need 2.5 PSI of water pressure.
Its compact size with folding handle keeps you out of the way, allowing for a convenient outdoor setup. Provides 1.32 gallons of hot water output per minute and energy-saving technology. You can get instant and infinite hot water easily wherever you are.
Buying Guide – best tankless water heater for large home
Make sure you choose the right size.
The first thing to consider is the size of the water heater you will need. Tankless water heaters vary in size. Some are small enough to take with you on a camping trip, while others may be large enough to heat water in large homes.
So, to make sure you buy the right water heater for your home, first think about what the maximum hot water you will need to use at one time. Perhaps your home has several showers that people will use at the same time.
Or maybe you live alone and never use hot water in more than one room at a time. Whatever your need, there is a tankless water heater available for you.
You have discovered how much hot water you need. What now?
Flow estimates Bathroom faucet: 0.5–1.5 GPM
Kitchen faucet: 1.0–2.0gpm
Low flow shower: 1.0–2.5gpm
High flow showerhead: 3.0–4.0gpm
Washing Machine: 1.5–2.5gpm
Well, you need to convert this to gallons per minute to find the right size water heater for you. Although water heaters with lower flow rates are generally much cheaper, I would not recommend cutting corners when choosing the size.
The water can change from hot to cold and will not remain at a constant temperature if the water heater is too small. In the chart above, I gave a general idea of the flow rate in gallons per minute that average household appliances use.
This should be used only as a guide; actual usage may vary for your home. Just add as many GPM as you need at one time and you’ll have the size of the tankless water heater needed for your home.
Did you mean that the temperature can affect the flow of my heater?
Yes, you can consider the climate you are in before finalizing your purchase. As the tankless water heater heats water as it passes through the system, the temperature of the incoming water can affect the flow rate that comes out of your water heater.
For example, if you live in a hot climate and the water you receive is never below 70 degrees Fahrenheit, your tankless water heater will work much more efficiently because it only needs to slightly increase the water temperature, which may even increase the system flow.
The bad news is that this means that, in colder climates, your heaters will be less efficient, as the water temperature will need to be increased much more and may decrease the flow. This may not have a drastic impact on efficiency, but it is something to consider when making your purchase.
Consider whether you need gas or electricity.
When choosing between gas or electricity, there are a few things to think about. Gas-powered tankless water heaters will require ventilation, so unless you already have an easy way to make an opening for your new tankless system, I would recommend using the electrical system.
Electric water heaters do not need ventilation, so there are more options for installing the water heater.
In addition, electric water heaters are cheaper to buy but have a slightly higher cost to operate on average. Whichever path you choose, remember to install the correct voltage or gas line for your water heater. I
n addition, you may notice that if you are planning to save hundreds of dollars and install the system, you may lose certain warranties.
What type of gas?
One of the first questions to answer is what type of gas is available at the residence. The vast majority of heaters on the market are available in versions for LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas) or GN (Natural Gas).
It is important to note that currently there are no bi-fuel or “flex” devices, so the heater must be purchased in the model for the correct gas available at the installation site, NG or LPG.
If you have doubts about the type of gas available, consult a reliable source, for example, the caretaker or supervisor of the condominium, or the gas supply company. If you have the opportunity to talk to these sources, also question the particularities of the gas installation (when LPG, the flow capacity of the battery is important), consumption meter, regulators, and pipes, which also influence the availability of fuel, and affect heater performance.
If you make a mistake in purchasing and purchase the heater with the wrong gas, contact the store to exchange the product for the correct model.
There are no certified heaters for use with “biogas”. As there is no standardized composition of this gas, the test, and safety parameters for its use in the devices have not been established.
How many points will be served by the heater?
The gas heater heats water that can be distributed to several points of consumption. For example, in an apartment with two bathrooms, the heater can supply water for the two showers, the bathroom taps, and also for the kitchen sink.
After checking how many points will be served, one should think about how many points are likely to be used simultaneously.
In this same example, if only two people reside in this two-bathroom apartment, if the two showers are being used at the same time, it is unlikely that the tap will be opened at this time.
Another important issue is to know the flow of these consumption points. There are taps and showers in which the water outlet is higher, in others, smaller, and this affects the performance of the heater. A tip: in new showers and taps, it is usually possible to consult the manufacturer’s packaging or other materials.
With the flow of the points and the simultaneous quantity, it is possible to estimate the flow required to meet the need and to be able to choose the most suitable heater.
What are the characteristics of the property that can influence the operation of the device?
Is it a one-story house, a townhouse or an apartment?
In the case of an apartment, which floor? How many floors are there above?
Where will the heater be installed? In the service area?
Is the apartment a “studio” or “loft” type (without internal divisions between the living room, kitchen, etc.)?
Is there an outlet for the exhaust duct or is there already a duct installed? What is its diameter?
Is there a PowerPoint near the place reserved for the heater?
What is the diameter of the gas and water connections available?
These characteristics of the property influence the type of heater exhaust that can be installed, as well as the need to use a water pressurizer for the proper functioning of the heater.
Questions answered, what now?
We can now examine the information that is usually disclosed on the manufacturer’s packaging, manual, or other material, and explain its meaning.
Flow capacity and heater power
The most notable feature of the heater, and as they are usually classified in catalogs or search engines, is the flow capacity. It is very common to already have the information that you need “a 21-liter heater” in a property owner’s manual or by tips from friends. It is a simple number (which represents a not so simple concept) and it can be used in a simple way.
The flow capacity in liters per minute of the heater is derived from its power (expressed in kW or in kcal / h). It consists of how many liters of hot water the heater can supply in 1 minute of operation (20º C of temperature increase).
The simple way to work with this number is that knowing the number of simultaneous points to be served and the flow of these points, it is possible to calculate the necessary device. For example, if you have four 8 l / min showers to be serviced simultaneously, you would need a heater of at least (4 x 8) = 32 l / min.
The bill is unlikely to be accurate, and the choice of the heater depends on your performance and climate requirement in the region. For example, two 12 l / min showers = 24 l / min heater. Does a 21 l / min heater answer?
In a hot climate, it can be said that it will serve you well most of the year, and on a colder day, the performance with the two points open at the same time will not be as good. But it would be enough for almost every month.
In another example, three 10 l / min showers = 30 l / min heater. Does a 32 l / min heater answer? Theoretically yes, but if it is a place with a very cold climate, where a higher water temperature will be required, comfort would be more guaranteed with a 35 l / min heater.
The ideal water pressure for the heater operation varies according to each model and can be consulted in the promotional materials. As a rule, apartment dwellers will experience problems with insufficient water pressure when on the top or penultimate floor (or roof), and in homes and townhouses, this situation can also occur.
There are pressurizing devices (also called “pumps”) to supplement the mains water pressure and obtain the maximum performance of the heater.
It is not recommended that homes and townhouses connect the heater directly to the water supply, as the pressure fluctuation is very large and can cause damage to the appliance. The heater must always be connected to the network fed by the water tank.
Mechanical heater or digital heater
One way to classify the devices is mechanical and digital (or electronic).
The main difference between them is the issue of temperature control. In mechanical heaters, there is normally no automatic power adjustment to compensate for variations in water flow and/or inlet temperature.
Digital heaters usually have the modulation capacity that determines the power according to the water flow and the temperature selected in a control. With better control of temperature and power, digital heaters provide greater comfort and potentially less gas consumption.
Regarding durability, digital heaters also usually have an advantage, due to their constructive characteristics. The digital ones are also devices that have better performance in the use of reduced water flow (faucet with little open, “shower”, etc.) in relation to the mechanics, that with little water flow may not even be activated.
When searching for heaters, you are sure to find terms like natural exhaust and forced exhaust. And this is one of the most important issues with regard to the safety of the gas heater and that must be given a lot of attention.
The exhaust (or drawings it is also called) is the conduction of combustion products to the outside of the building so that there is no contamination of the environment. These products of combustion, including carbon monoxide, can pose health and life risks if they are not properly eliminated.
Therefore, it is essential that all * gas water heaters installed indoors are duly provided with an exhaust duct in good condition, in accordance with the specifications of the manual and with the current installation rules and regulations.
The ducts must have the correct diameter according to the heater model, respect lengths, slopes, curves, and other determinations in the manufacturer’s manual and be properly connected to the exhaust terminal, which must also be installed properly.
(* there is a small exception in the installation standard for ductless gas heaters up to a certain power that can be installed indoors, however, these products are not currently available on the market).
The difference between natural exhaust and forced exhaust is that the latter has a fan (also called a fan) to assist in the conduction of combustion products, and is therefore safer.
Natural exhaust heaters, as they do not have any type of “aid” for conducting gases, have more stringent requirements for the installation site, with regard to the number and size of ventilation openings.
As they are more susceptible to wind effects, it is also not recommended to install natural exhaust heaters on high floors (above the 5th floor generally).
A positive point for natural exhaust heaters (one of the few) is that they normally work without the need to connect to the mains – using batteries. As a result, they can provide hot water even in the event of a power outage, and are even recommended for use in isolated areas with a high incidence of lightning.
There is a third type called balanced flow (or closed-loop). The difference with this is that there is no consumption of oxygen from the environment for combustion, being a safer device, and therefore with fewer restrictions in the installation environment – for example, they are the only heaters where installation inside the bathroom is allowed.
However, to function properly these devices also have some technical peculiarities, including the configuration of their ducts, which does not make installation so simple.
Gas efficiency and consumption
Related to energy efficiency, the efficiency of the gas appliance is a ratio between the amount of energy transferred to the water (heating), and the amount of fuel consumed (gas). But some points must be taken into account:
– The gas consumption identified in the heater is the consumption at full power. If you use less than the maximum capacity of the heater (example, you regularly use a 10 l / min shower and a 21 l / min heater) your consumption will be proportional.
This also means that to meet the same need, say, that same 10 l / min shower, a 12 l / min heater, a 15 l / min heater, or a 21 l / min heater will have almost the same consumption of gas (provided the yield is equivalent).
– Performance is a measure of comparison between heaters of similar power. A better performance heater, but with greater flow capacity, will possibly have a higher gas consumption – albeit more efficiently.
– High-performance heaters need to have ways of dealing with the condensation of combustion products to prevent damage to the ducts and the appliance, which is a more advanced technology (called condensing ).
Every gas appliance, according to current regulations, must be installed by a qualified professional. Gas heaters, which also involve knowledge of hydraulics for their installation, are no different.
An improper installation negatively affects the performance of the appliance and is often the cause of accidents that, at best, only cause material damage to the property.
The health and life of residents of a residence or condominium cannot be put at risk. Again, we emphasize, only properly qualified professionals should provide installation and maintenance services for gas heaters.
Apart from the professional, the use of quality secondary materials is also essential for the performance and safety of the installation. Exhaust ducts and terminals, pipes and water and gas registers, accessories such as pressurizers and others, also impact the operation of the heater.
Water consumption and waste
Do gas heaters lead to wasted water? This is a myth.
It is true that a bath with a gas heater can consume a lot of water. There are showers of 15, 20, 40, or more than 70 liters per minute! This large volume of water consumed by the showers provides a great feeling of comfort and consequently has its “price” in consumption.
On the other hand, there are showers of 6 to 8 liters per minute with excellent performance, and that guarantee comfortable baths. The choice of a shower with a higher or lower flow is what weighs in the water consumption, not the heating system.
Another point is the issue of “delay to warm up”. It is often believed that the heater is slow to heat the water because it opens the shower and takes a few seconds, or even minutes, to start running hot water.
This is not due to the delay on the part of the heater, but due to the distance between it and the consumption point. The pipe contains water that will not pass through the heater and that must come out to make room for hot water, and the greater the distance, the greater the amount of cold water.
To solve this situation, the hydraulic network can be modified to form a circulation ring, allowing, with the use of an appropriate system, cold water to be directed to the heater and not wasted.
Although this change generally requires reform, the gain in savings is significant. In addition, many newly built properties have already been designed with the concept of circulation and the point of installation of the heater as close as possible to the points of consumption, thus reducing the path of hot water.